Homescale › 1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE

To the lower 48 US States only! This engine had all of the machine work completed but was loosely assembled and in need of completion. At this point the engine has no more than about 40 minutes of run time. Video of this engine running: I have two videos posted on YouTube of me going over details and running the engine. Part 1 of 2 ½ scale Debolt Vaughn. Part 2 0f 2 ½ scale Debolt Vaughn. The Flywheel is 9 inches in diameter. Mounted on the wooden stand the total height is 12 ¾ inches and it weighs 47 lbs. The wooden display stand measures 25 x 13 inches. The engine itself measures about 16 long by about 10 ¾ inches wide and stands about 9 ½ inches tall not including the wooden display stand. Engine piston bore and stroke is approximately 1 ¾ x 1 7/8 inches. Ignition: The spark for this engine is provided by a Make Brake ignition system. This system works by hooking a battery up to a low tension coil. When the contacts inside of the combustion area are closed, the coil is charged. When the contacts open quickly a spark is produced. The 12 volt jell cell I used in the video is not included in this sale. Disconnect your power supply when the engine is not running. Fuel system: The outlet of the brass fuel tank is below the inlet of the fuel mixer. Inside of the fuel tank is a check ball on the fuel outlet to prevent the fuel from draining back into the tank and away from the adjustable needle during freewheeling and the time that the engine is not running. I strongly recommend draining the fuel out of the tank after running. This includes letting the engine run after the tank has been emptied to allow the fuel to be sucked out of the fuel line. There is a drain plug (not shown) in the bottom of the fuel tank. Over the years I have cleaned out more fuel tanks and fuel mixers/carburetors than you could imagine due to people not draining the tanks dry when they were finished running the engine. I ran this engine on some old Coleman lantern fuel that has some castor oil mixed in with it for upper cylinder lubrication during brake-in. Coleman lantern fuel is Naptha. Both can be found at most any hardware store. Keep in mind that most all pump gas contains at least 10% methanol along with a ton of chemicals that leaves a white crusty buildup (methanol is corrosive to some metal parts, especially aluminum) on everything it is in contact with should it be left in the tank and carb to evaporate over time. The carburetor / fuel-mixer: As I show in the video, the adjustment of the mixture needle is very sensitive. Only the slightest movement of the needle makes the difference between the engine running rich or lean. Please watch my video for more running information. Lubrication: There are 4 grease cups on this engine. Each time you run this engine, remove the screw on brass caps and push some bearing grease into the cups. Overfill the the cups slightly and carefully screw on the caps. The caps will screw in hard when they are pushing grease into the bearing area. So be careful that the caps are not turning hard because you might have them cross-threaded. You should be able to see some grease pushing out at one or both ends of the bearing. The brass connecting rod end has a hole in it for the included syringe that has grease in it. You need to see some grease pushing out on either side of the connecting rod end. Fill the drip oilier and turn the drip adjustment needle out about a turn and a half till this engine gets some more run time on it. Keep the drip oilier filled. Oil any other areas where metal rubs against metal like the governor shaft that has the side shaft rotating inside of it. Squirt some oil up into the bottom of the piston where the wrist pin is located. There is a oil hole located on the rod just above the wrist pin that you can not see. Water tank: I painted the inside of the water tank that is on top of the cylinder before the top was sealed on and the block was painted. The hole (passage way) that goes down to the water tank drain plug is not painted on the inside so if water is left in the tank this drain hole could rust closed. After draining the water out of the tank I ran some oil through the drain hole to keep it from rusting. I screw in the drain plug finger tight with grease on the threads to keep it from leaking. One way bearing starter. I have problems with my right thumb and the bearing starters that I make help me in starting the engines that I work on. I explain how this works in my videos on this engine. All sales are final! NOTE: Like the real full size hit and miss engines, these engines were not designed to run at a high RPM. Running this engine too fast could cause severe damage to the engine and possibly to anyone standing near it. Whats included in the sale: You get the engine as shown mounted on the wooden display stand, the one way bearing starter and the rod berating greasing syringe. The shown battery in my videos is not included. I make no guarantee on how this will run for you. You should have some mechanical experience with small engines to get this to run properly. ALL SALES ARE FINAL! The total dry weight of this Vaughn is about 47lbs. The heavy duty plastic container the engine will be packed up in weight 10lbs. So that is 57lbs without the large amount of packing material that I will be using. I wont be packing this engine till it sells so I can enjoy looking at it a little while longer and have it available for any needed photos or measurements. This is a running handmade gasoline powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts like hair or clothing in a rotating / moving mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an adult collectible item not to be operated near or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction of a engine that was produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims as to how it will run for you as adjustments most likely will need to be made like fuel mixture and or governor settings. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. You understand that this is a hand built reproduction of a antique engine that was manufactured back in the day before any built in safety precautions were added to mechanical devices. If you have any questions, please ask before purchasing or making a offer on this engine. I have detailed photos posted. I have a video posted and describe everything to the best of my ability. I encourage asking questions should you have any and I will be more than glad to help. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. Thank you for looking! The item “1/2 Scale Debolt Vaughn Model Antique Hit and Miss Engine. NICE” is in sale since Thursday, September 27, 2018. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “bushvideo” and is located in Reading, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.
  • Powered By: Gas
  • Brand: Debolt Machine Vaughn
  • Model: Hit and Miss engine reproduction Vaughn
  • Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
  • Type: Hit & Miss

Comments are closed.