Hit Miss Engine

Scale Associated The Hired Man gas powered Hit and Miss model engine built from Paul Breisch castings. The fit and finish make this a show quality engine. I describe in detail some of the things I did to this engine, I give advice and tips of what worked for me and I have a video link in the ad that shows this engine running. I also give you some more information in the video. You are encouraged to ask questions should you have any. This engine in the Breisch sales brochure is listed as having a 1 ¼ inch bore by a 1 5/8 inch stroke. The flywheels are approximately 6 ¼ inch in diameter. It weighs about 26 lbs. The engine casting, inside the crankshaft/connecting rod area this cast on the block ” BREISCH E37A”. This is stamped into the bottom of the engine blocks mounting pad TPV. The wooden stand the engine is mounted to measures (just the stand not including the engine) 24 ¼” long, 9” wide by 3 ¾” tall. The engine only measurements are; Approximately 12 ½” from the tip of the exhaust adjusting cap screw to the back side of the flywheels, 8 ¾” wide, by 9 ½” tall. Mounted on the display stand everything is 13” tall to the top of the exhaust stack. I see some people describing this engine as a Associated Hired Man. So I used that in part of my description. Actually as outlined in the Breisch brochure, the Associated has a Make Break ignition set up so the engine block has the provision for that style ignition cast into the block. The Hired Man is a spark plug ignition version of the Associated engine with no provisions in the block for a make break ignition setup. So to view my video of this engine you need to go to YouTube and type this in the search box. Or I have found that is you simply do a web search for the below title of the video it will come up near the top of the page. The title of the video is. 1/3rd scale Hit and Miss engine, Breisch “Hired Man”. Should you have any problems finding the video please contact me through this ad and I will help you out. My user name on that site (YouTube) is JoeKind1958 and you can view videos of some of the many other Hit and Miss engines I have had and restored over the years. Thanks in advance for checking them out! This engine features a self contained, custom built electronic ignition system triggered by the engines points , all mounted in the small scale looking wooden box that is mounted on the stand. The battery that powers the ignition system is a 4.8 volt, 4 AA cell battery pack. That is held in the lid using Velcro. A battery charger is included in this sale. Just unplug the battery and plug it into the charger for overnight charging. When plugging the battery back into the ignition unit, MAKE SURE you do not reverse the voltage polarity!!! Line up the black and red wires when putting the plug together. Mounted in the lower half of the box is the CDI ignition unit, off and on switch and rather than just using a light (or no light at all) to show that the ignition is switched on, I mounted a volt meter so you know what the battery voltage is eliminating the need to guess or use a volt meter. It’s a 4.8 volt pack. When fully charged it will show around 5.20 volts. When you get down to around 4.2 volts I would charge it up. I do not know how low you can run the battery down to before the ignition box stops working. With all the testing I did and test running the battery only dropped down to 5.05 volts from about 5.21 volts so it should last quite a long time before charging is needed. These CDI ignitions are normally triggered by a Hall Effect sensor. Simply stated the Hall sensors complete a circuit when a magnet passed by the sensor. In the case of this engine I did not use a hall sensor as the ignition box is triggered by ignition points. When the points close the ignition coil is charged and the spark is produced the moment that the points break contact. So the moment the points open, that is when the spark is produced. That is something you need to know should you want to adjust the engines timing. Unlike a coil/condenser type point ignition, this CDI unit does not produce a visible spark at the ignition points so they should last forever. Just keep in mind that they could become dusty or dirty and that would prevent a spark. Since I like to run these engines slow I have the timing set at about 2 degrees advanced, before TDC (Top dead center of the piston). While on the subject of the ignition system I will say that I used a super small amount of red gasket silicone on the spark plug washer as without the silicone on the washer, soapy water showed some slight compression leaking past the washer and this engine has GREAT compression!! The plug washer is copper but the threads are rather small and I did not want to take the chance of plug damage by over-tightening the spark plug. It is just snugged up a bit. Just tightened slightly more than finger tight might be the best way to describe it. Do NOT use Teflon tape on the plug threads and washer as you run the chance of insulating the electronic negative ground of the plug from the cylinder head, thus no spark. I will include the small ¼ inch drive socket that I ground the end down on so it fits on the spark plug. Fuel and fuel system. It looked scale and added to the appearance of the display stand. The one way valve prevents the fuel from flowing away from the needle valve in the fuel mixer/carburetor. There is a brass fuel shut off valve that MUST be opened (just ¾ of a turn out is good) for the fuel to flow to the mixer. I did add a couple of drops of castor oil to the fuel tank for cylinder lubrication. I just like the smell of the castor oil. Reminds me of my go-kart racing days. The carb needle valve is turned out slightly less than 2 turns. What works for you might be different depending on weather conditions and fuel type. Being super hot and humid out, when setting up this engine. I got lazy and used a starter cup from a model airplane engine starter and a drill to turn overt the engine. This is shown in the video and is NOT included in the sale. I do custom make/machine one way bearing starters that are used with a drill. It just makes starting easier with all the starting I do when setting up a engine. One of those is not included in this sale and would cost extra should you want one. When starting the fuel needs to be sucked up to the carburetor. With the fuel valve turned out ¾ of a turn, hold one hand over the air inlet of the fuel mixer. Here is why I like using fuel line where you can see the fuel rather than using copper line. With the ignition switched off, and a hand over the air inlet to choke the fuel mixer, spin the engine over about two times and you will see the fuel suck up to the mixer. Once the fuel is at the mixer, do one more spin with your hand over the air inlet. Turn on the ignition and spin it over and take it from there. That’s about all the information I can give you on starting. I like using a drill motor to start these engines, some people like hand starting. Once its yours that is up to you. To adjust the engine speed, when the governor kicks in and the engine freewheels. As I show in the video. This can be adjusted by the spring tension on the flywheel weights and the thumb screw on the lock out lever that holds the exhaust valve open during freewheeling. Adding tension to the 2 weight springs will increase the speed and turning in the thumb screw to increase the tension of the lock out lever spring will also increase the engines RPM. NOTE: Like the real full size hit and miss engines, these engines were not designed to run at a high RPM. Running this engine too fast could cause severe damage to the engine and possibly to anyone standing near it. Whats included in the sale; The engine shown mounted on its display/running stand with all of the other shown attached items. Included is a crank shaft guard shown in one of the posted photos, and it will be installed on the engine when you receive it. A Futaba charger is included for the ignition battery and a ¼ inch drive socket ground down to fit the installed spark plug is included. Line up the red and black wires across from each other when plugging in the battery as the plug is not keyed. The engine has a flat belt pulley that is crowned in the center and that is included. There is a crank shaft guard that is included. I did not have it on for most of the photos and it was not on when I took the video as I wanted to show the detail of the engine. LOL It will be installed when you receive this engine and I need to say for safety reasons that you do NOT remove it as you could loose a finger(s) should you get your hand near the end of the connecting rod with this engine running. Even with the guard on you could still stick a finger, clothing or hair (my hair is going away I don’t need to worry about that, LOL) in the crankshaft area and cause some major damage. You should have some mechanical experience with small engines to get this to run properly. This is a “one of a kind” hand machined/fabricated and built engine. ALL SALES ARE FINAL! This is a running, gasoline powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts /hair in a rotating mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an adult collectible item not to be operated or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims that it will even run as some might not have the mechanical ability to figure it out. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. You understand that this is a gasoline powered reproduction of a antique engine that was made back in the day before any safety precautions were designed into mechanical devices. I have detailed photos posted. A link is in this ad that shows this engine running. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. Thank you for looking! The item “Breisch 1/3 scale Model Hit And Miss Gas Engine The Hired Man Associated NICE! &” is in sale since Thursday, September 28, 2017. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “t-n-b123″ and is located in Reading, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.

• Powered By: Gas
• Brand: Breisch Associated
• Type: Hit & Miss
• Model: Associated
• Country/Region of Manufacture: United States

Scale Associated The Hired Man gas powered Hit and Miss model engine built from Paul Breisch castings. The fit and finish make this a show quality engine. I describe in detail some of the things I did to this engine, I give advice and tips of what worked for me and I have a video link in the ad that shows this engine running. I also give you some more information in the video. You are encouraged to ask questions should you have any. Up to that point I can take photos of anything you would like to see or any measurements you might like to know. Please ask and I will be more than glad to help. This engine in the Breisch sales brochure is listed as having a 1 ¼ inch bore by a 1 5/8 inch stroke. The flywheels are approximately 6 ¼ inch in diameter. It weighs about 26 lbs. The engine casting, inside the crankshaft/connecting rod area this cast on the block ” BREISCH E37A”. This is stamped into the bottom of the engine blocks mounting pad TPV. The wooden stand the engine is mounted to measures (just the stand not including the engine) 24 ¼” long, 9” wide by 3 ¾” tall. The engine only measurements are; Approximately 12 ½” from the tip of the exhaust adjusting cap screw to the back side of the flywheels, 8 ¾” wide, by 9 ½” tall. Mounted on the display stand everything is 13” tall to the top of the exhaust stack. I see some people describing this engine as a Associated Hired Man. So I used that in part of my description. Actually as outlined in the Breisch brochure, the Associated has a Make Break ignition set up so the engine block has the provision for that style ignition cast into the block. The Hired Man is a spark plug ignition version of the Associated engine with no provisions in the block for a make break ignition setup. Here is the YouTube video link showing this engine running. Should the link not work you can go to YouTube and type the video title in their search box. 1/3rd scale Hit and Miss engine, Breisch “Hired Man”. My user name on that site is JoeKind1958 and you view videos of some of the other Hit and Miss engines I have had over the years. This engine features a self contained electronic ignition system triggered by the engines points all mounted in the small scale looking wooden box that is mounted on the stand. The battery that powers the ignition system is a 4.8 volt, 4 AA cell battery pack. That is held in the lid using Velcro. A battery charger is included in this sale. Just unplug the battery and plug it into the charger for overnight charging. When plugging the battery back into the ignition unit, MAKE SURE you do not reverse the voltage polarity!!! Line up the black and red wires when putting the plug together. Mounted in the lower half of the box is the CDI ignition unit, off and on switch and rather than just using a light (or no light at all) to show that the ignition is switched on, I mounted a volt meter so you know what the battery voltage is eliminating the need to guess or use a volt meter. It’s a 4.8 volt pack. When fully charged it will show around 5.20 volts. When you get down to around 4.2 volts I would charge it up. I do not know how low you can run the battery down to before the ignition box stops working. With all the testing I did and test running the battery only dropped down to 5.05 volts from about 5.21 volts so it should last quite a long time before charging is needed. These CDI ignitions are normally triggered by a Hall Effect sensor. Simply stated the Hall sensors complete a circuit when a magnet passed by the sensor. In the case of this engine I did not use a hall sensor as the ignition box is triggered by ignition points. When the points close the ignition coil is charged and the spark is produced the moment that the points break contact. So the moment the points open, that is when the spark is produced. That is something you need to know should you want to adjust the engines timing. Unlike a coil/condenser type point ignition, this CDI unit does not produce a visible spark at the ignition points so they should last forever. Just keep in mind that they could become dusty or dirty and that would prevent a spark. Since I like to run these engines slow I have the timing set at about 2 degrees advanced, before TDC (Top dead center of the piston). While on the subject of the ignition system I will say that I used a super small amount of red gasket silicone on the spark plug washer as without the silicone on the washer, soapy water showed some slight compression leaking past the washer and this engine has GREAT compression!! The plug washer is copper but the threads are rather small and I did not want to take the chance of plug damage by over-tightening the spark plug. It is just snugged up a bit. Just tightened slightly more than finger tight might be the best way to describe it. Do NOT use Teflon tape on the plug threads and washer as you run the chance of insulating the electronic negative ground of the plug from the cylinder head, thus no spark. I will include the small ¼ inch drive socket that I ground the end down on so it fits on the spark plug. Fuel and fuel system. It looked scale and added to the appearance of the display stand. The one way valve prevents the fuel from flowing away from the needle valve in the fuel mixer/carburetor. There is a brass fuel shut off valve that MUST be opened (just ¾ of a turn out is good) for the fuel to flow to the mixer. I did add a couple of drops of castor oil to the fuel tank for cylinder lubrication. I just like the smell of the castor oil. Reminds me of my go-kart racing days. The carb needle valve is turned out slightly less than 2 turns. What works for you might be different depending on weather conditions and fuel type. Being super hot and humid out, when setting up this engine. I got lazy and used a starter cup from a model airplane engine starter and a drill to turn overt the engine. This is shown in the video and is NOT included in the sale. I do custom make/machine one way bearing starters that are used with a drill. They can be seen being used in some of my YouTube videos on the larger engines like the Breisch Olds. It just makes starting easier with all the starting I do when setting up a engine. One of those is not included in this sale and would cost extra should you want one. When starting the fuel needs to be sucked up to the carburetor. With the fuel valve turned out ¾ of a turn, hold one hand over the air inlet of the fuel mixer. Here is why I like using fuel line where you can see the fuel rather than using copper line. With the ignition switched off, and a hand over the air inlet to choke the fuel mixer, spin the engine over about two times and you will see the fuel suck up to the mixer. Once the fuel is at the mixer, do one more spin with your hand over the air inlet. Turn on the ignition and spin it over and take it from there. That’s about all the information I can give you on starting. I like using a drill motor to start these engines, some people like hand starting. Once its yours that is up to you. To adjust the engine speed, when the governor kicks in and the engine freewheels. As I show in the video. This can be adjusted by the spring tension on the flywheel weights and the thumb screw on the lock out lever that holds the exhaust valve open during freewheeling. Adding tension to the 2 weight springs will increase the speed and turning in the thumb screw to increase the tension of the lock out lever spring will also increase the engines RPM. NOTE: Like the real full size hit and miss engines, these engines were not designed to run at a high RPM. Running this engine too fast could cause severe damage to the engine and possibly to anyone standing near it. Whats included in the sale; The engine shown mounted on its display/running stand with all of the other shown attached items. Included is a crank shaft guard shown in one of the posted photos, and it will be installed on the engine when you receive it. A Futaba charger is included for the ignition battery and a ¼ inch drive socket ground down to fit the installed spark plug is included. Line up the red and black wires across from each other when plugging in the battery as the plug is not keyed. The engine has a flat belt pulley that is crowned in the center and that is included. There is a crank shaft guard that is included. I did not have it on for most of the photos and it was not on when I took the video as I wanted to show the detail of the engine. LOL It will be installed when you receive this engine and I need to say for liability reasons that you do NOT remove it as you could loose a finger(s) should you get your hand near the end of the connecting rod with this engine running. Even with the guard on you could still stick a finger, clothing or hair (my hair is going away I don’t need to worry about that, LOL) in the crankshaft area and cause some major damage. You should have some mechanical experience with small engines to get this to run properly. ALL SALES ARE FINAL! Here are the package details. The engine will be well padded and protected inside of the container. The container measures 29 x 20 x 16 inches and will weigh a estimated 38 pounds. I live in Pa. This is a running, gasoline powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts /hair in a rotating mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an adult collectible item not to be operated or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims that it will even run as some might not have the mechanical ability to figure it out. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. You understand that this is a gasoline powered reproduction of a antique engine that was made back in the day before any safety precautions were designed into mechanical devices. I have detailed photos posted. A link is in this ad that shows this engine running. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. Thank you for looking! The item “Breisch 1/3 scale Model Hit And Miss Gas Engine The Hired Man Associated NICE” is in sale since Friday, August 25, 2017. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “t-n-b123″ and is located in Reading, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.

• Type: Hit & Miss
• Brand: Breisch “The Hired Man”
• Powered By: Gas
• Country/Region of Manufacture: United States