Hit Miss Engine

NOTE; I have a photo posted for size comparison only, that shows this engine in front of the ½ scale Olds I have for sale in another listing. The Olds is NOT included in this sale. This 1/3 scale Associated Hired Man running engine has 6 flywheels. Bore and stroke is 1 1/4 x 1 5/8. It measures approximately (not including it’s wooden stand) 12 long, 8 wide, 8 1/2 wide. The wooden stand measures 17 ¼ inches long by 8 inches wide. The bottom of the stand to the top of the exhaust stack measures 12 ¼ inches. I balanced this engine after taking the first set of photos that have the black background. Take a look at the posted photo with the white background I have some of the weight machined off of the flywheel counterweights. I like the look so that is the way it is sitting now. Should you want me to paint the counterweights to match the flywheel just let me know otherwise it will look like it does in the photo with the white background and in my video. Many hours of machine work and assembly goes into producing a high quality scale model like this. A lathe, milling machine and experienced operator was needed to finish the rough castings and to fabricate the additional parts required. Having to pay someone for all of the machine work and fabrication involved would cost quite a bit. I put about 3 months of working most every day into restoring this engine. I worked as a Goldsmith/Jeweler for well over 30 years and I have a vast mechanical background once building successful racing engines for a few street rods and dirt track race cars along several racing go kart engines that picked up a few feature wins for the owner. I have combined my love for engines and jewelry skills into the model hit and miss engines that I build/restore. I hope it shows. I have a 15 minute video posted on YouTube where I go into detail about this engine along with showing how well it runs. The video is titled 1/3 scale gas powered Breisch Associated Hired Man Hit and Miss engine. My user name on that site is JoeKind1958. That’s just a user name, not my real name. I have many other videos on that site showing the engines that I have fixed/restored over the years. I think that the challenge in getting a scale engine like this to run and sound like the real thing is to run it slow and have it fire on just one intake stroke after the governor kicks out as I have accomplished here. In looking at many videos of scale engines on YouTube, I see that many of scale engines are running way to fast and they need to go through several intake strokes till they finally draw in enough fuel/air to fire just once. Why is one intake stroke not good enough? Usually its because the mixer air passage is simply too big for the amount of air that is drawn through the mixer. This is usually patched by having to restrict the incoming air by some sort of choke or a restrictor. Both might get the engine to run but both are not the correct way to get your engine to run like it should. Reason being is that by restricting the incoming air you are slowing down the air flow causing a bit of a vacuum and the fuel is sucked out in large poor burning droplets. The answer is to have a venturi area inside of the mixer right where the mixture needle and fuel jet are located. Having the air speed up in the venturi area past the fuel jet gives a nice misting/atomizing of the fuel for a more complete burning of the fuel. It’s why most every, if not all carburetors from small engines to race cars have a venturi area in the throttle bore(s). PLEASE NOTE that some of the posted photos were taken of this engine before I balanced the rotating crank assembly. I removed material from both flywheel counterweights in the lathe. I had to remove 32 grams off of the flywheel counterweights to balance it out and I chose not to paint the area that was machined off of the weights because I like the look. The photo showing the engine with a white background and my video show the engine with the material removed from the counterweights on the flywheels. Should you want me to paint that area red, let me know and I will do that for you. For many reasons this canned gas has become my favorite fuel for my model engines. I have used Coleman camp fuel and Naptha with mixed results. It does not seem to be as clean burning as the canned gas that gives constantly good results every time. Pump gas contains Ethanol that can be corrosive to certain metal parts. It also has a nasty habit of leaving a white crusty or green sticky residue (depends on the brand of gas, I have cleaned out a lot of small engine carbs over the years) when left to sit and evaporate out of a gas tank or carburetor. Not something you would want to use to fill up your riding mower. But for a small engine like this its well worth the price. It will last you a long time. It contains no Methanol and has stabilizers in it for a long shelf life. As I show in the video I add a small amount of castor oil to the canned gas when I fill up the tank on the engine stand. Just a drop or two goes a long way. The ignition points were originally located on the pushrod side of the engine. There really is no way to give one of these Associated engines a clean detailed look with a set of ignition points hanging below the pushrod so I made a crank mounted cam to trigger the points that are mounted to the engine block. The points trigger a regular 12 volt automotive type coil and you will need a 12 to 14 volt power source to run this ignition. I used a 12 volt gel cell battery. When the voltage drops down to close to 11 volts the spark does weaken a bit so keep your battery charged up. Note; 12 volt battery or jumper wires to hook the battery up to this engine are NOT INCLUDED. You will need to provide your own 12 volt power supply. NOTE: This is a running reproduction of a antique engine. It is an adult collectible item and is intended to be used by a experienced adult. Just like the original engine, it has no safety guards or covers mounted to it. Loose clothing, long hair or fingers could become cough in any moving part when this engine is running or even being turned over by hand. Use commonsense and keep your fingers especially small fingers! Away from all moving parts! I make no guarantees or clams as to how it will run for you or even if you would be able to get it started. Some mechanical knowledge and experience is needed to run any antique model engine like this. I have clear photos posted showing many different angels. I have a video posted showing it running. You should have some knowledge of a engine like this, like how to maintain it, keep it lubricated and adjust it if necessary as I provide no instructions other than what is in my videos and written in this ad. No guarantees of any kind are included with a hand made, adult hobby item like this. What you see is what you get. The 6 volt battery and the white cable from the battery to the engine is not included. If you want a more detailed photo of something or have any questions I will be more than glad to respond in a timely manor. The engine will be wrapped up in several layers of heavy duty industrial type bubble wrap. I will then fit this into a box or surround it with cardboard before more layers of bubble wrap are added. All this should fit into a heavy duty 29x19x17inch storage type tub. Total weight should be around 45 pounds. My packing is among the best you will find. This is gasoline powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts in a rotating mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an adult collectible item not to be operated or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims that it will even run as some might not have the mechanical ability to figure it out. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. I have detailed photos posted. A link is in this ad that shows this engine running. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. Thank you for looking! The item “1/3 Scale Associated gas powered model Hit and Miss engine motor, antique &” is in sale since Friday, June 14, 2019. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “bushvideo” and is located in Reading, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.

• Model: 1/3 scale Associated
• Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
• Type: Hit & Miss
• MPN: Does Not Apply
• Brand: Paul Breisch castings/ Bill Bush restored
• Powered By: Gas