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25Apr
1/2 Scale Breisch Olds gas powered model Hit and Miss engine motor, Show Quality
scale
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I have a 20 minute video Posted on YouTube describing everything and showing it running. The block has been smoothed and the B that is on both sides of the water hopper has been filled over. Just starting off with that to avoid the messages saying that this is not built from Breisch castings. The engine features a 1 7/8 bore x 2 stroke w/8 1/4 dia. There is a functioning hand crank, flip out starter handle in the one flywheel. The wooden base measures 24 x 12 ½ inches. Many hours of machine work and assembly goes into producing a high quality scale model like this. A lathe, milling machine and experienced operator was needed to finish the rough castings and to fabricate the additional parts required. Having to pay someone for all of the machine work and fabrication involved would cost quite a bit. I put about 4 months of working most every day into restoring this engine. I have a 20 minuet video posted on YouTube where I go into detail about this engine along with showing how well it runs. The video is titled ½ Scale Show Quality Breisch Olds model Hit and Miss engine. My user name on that site is JoeKind1958. That’s just a user name, not my real name. I think that the challenge in getting a scale engine like this to run and sound like the real thing is to run it slow and have it fire on just one intake stroke after the governor kicks out as I have accomplished here. In looking at many videos of scale engines on YouTube, I see that many of scale engines are running way to fast and they need to go through several intake strokes till they finally draw in enough fuel/air to fire just once. It takes patience and experience to get them to run the way I show this one running in the video. I have restored several of these ½ scale Olds engines over the years and have run into one common problem with all of them. That is the scale Lunkenheimer fuel mixer. They are designed to work and look like the full scale fuel/air mixers. They have a valve inside that covers the fuel outlet/jet. On the intake stroke the spring loaded valve is sucked open and fuel is drawn out of the jet. I have yet to own one of these that did not draw out the fuel semi correctly without the use of a choke to restrict the incoming air. The choke usually needs to be closed about ½ to ¾ of the way to get the engine to run. Even then the fuel mixture screw becomes very sensitive in its adjustment with only a very slight turn needed to go between the engine running rich and lean. Without writing a book on this problem I will sum it up by giving my opinion that the air inlet, the internal valve and air outlet of this scale mixer is simply too big for the amount of air that flows through it. This is why it does not work without restricting the incoming air with a choke. So rather than having air flowing at a decent speed past the fuel jet that gives a nice misting/atomizing of the fuel for a more complete burning of the fuel, you end up restricting the incoming air with a choke to draw out the fuel that does not make for a nice misting spray of fuel. After first firing up this engine after the restoration it was back to the same old, same old need to use the choke to get this engine to run. Enough is enough so I redesigned the mixer. The idea is simple. Reduce the size of the inlet and outlet and put a venturi about ¾ of the way into where the fuel mists out. The incoming air speeds up when going through the venturi area and that is where the fuel mixes with the air. In one of my posted photos I have a crude drawing of the shape of the inside of the mixer now looks like. As I suspected, this carburetor like airflow design works perfectly. It draws out the fuel so well that I did not need to choke it to pull the fuel into it this modified mixer. Adjusting the mixture screw between rich and lean is not as sensitive (the best descriptive word I could think of) as it was with the original design. In that case about 1/8 of a turn made the difference between overly rich and so lean it would shut off. Balancing that sensitive adjustment with getting the choke set just right was how it once was. That is no longer the case now. Needless to say that any engines I get in from now on that have one of these Lunkenheimer style mixers on them will be modified. PLEASE NOTE that some of the posted photos were taken of this engine before I modified the mixer. The only visual difference now is the lack of the choke in what once was the air intake. The air inlet is now on the bottom of the mixer where the spring once was for the internal valve that is no longer there. So this engine still retains the same looks as it had before the mixer modification, just minus the choke. I was out of camp fuel so I set this engine up using the canned gas as I show in the video. Pump gas contains Ethanol that can be corrosive to certain metal parts. It also has a nasty habit of leaving a white crusty or green sticky residue (depends on the brand of gas, I have cleaned out a lot of small engine carbs over the years) when left to sit and evaporate out of a gas tank or carburetor. Not something you would want to use to fill up your riding mower. But for a small engine like this its well worth the price. It will last you a long time. It contains no Methanol and has stabilizers in it for a long shelf life. As I show in the video I add a small amount of castor oil to the canned gas when I fill up the tank on the engine stand. Just a drop or two goes a long way. The ignition points were originally located on the pushrod side of the engine. There really is no way to give one of these Olds engines a clean detailed look with a set of ignition points hanging below the pushrod so I made a mount and run them off the crankshaft inside of the flywheel where they are out of site. The points trigger a antique Ford buzz-coil that is mounted under the engine stand. I updated the antique coil by removing the original capacitor and replacing it with a modern one. It now puts of a real nice spark. You will need a 6 volt battery to power the buzz-coil. The battery shown in the video is not included. There is room under the engine stand to mount a 6volt small jell cell type battery. Then add a off and on switch and you have a self contained running engine. NOTE: This is a running reproduction of a antique engine. It is an adult collectible item and is intended to be used by a experienced adult. Just like the original engine, it has no safety guards /covers mounted to it. Loose clothing, long hair or fingers could become cough in any moving part when this engine is running or even being turned over by hand. Use commonsense and keep your fingers especially small fingers! Away from all moving parts! I make no guarantees or clams as to how it will run for you or even if you would be able to get it started. Some mechanical knowledge and experience is needed to run any antique model engine like this. I have clear photos posted showing many different angels. I have a video posted showing it running. You should have some knowledge of a engine like this, like how to maintain it, keep it lubricated and adjust it if necessary as I provide no instructions other than what is in my videos and written in this ad. No guarantees of any kind are included with a hand made, adult hobby item like this. What you see is what you get. The 6 volt battery and the white cable from the battery to the engine is not included. If you want a more detailed photo of something or have any questions I will be more than glad to respond in a timely manor. The engine will be wrapped up in several layers of heavy duty industrial type bubble wrap. I will then fit this into a box or surround it with cardboard before more layers of bubble wrap are added. All this should fit into a heavy duty 33x19x15inch storage type tub. Total weight should be around 65 pounds. My packing is among the best you will find. This is gasoline powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts in a rotating mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an adult collectible item not to be operated or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims that it will even run as some might not have the mechanical ability to figure it out. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. I have detailed photos posted. A link is in this ad that shows this engine running. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. Thank you for looking! The item “1/2 Scale Breisch Olds gas powered model Hit and Miss engine motor, Show Quality” is in sale since Wednesday, April 24, 2019. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “bushvideo” and is located in Reading, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.
- Model: 1/2 scale Olds
- Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
- Type: Hit & Miss
- MPN: Does Not Apply
- Brand: Paul Breisch castings/ Bill Bush restored
- Powered By: Gas
22Jun
Perkins vertical air cooled sideshaft Hit and Miss Model Engine, show quality
perkins
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To the lower 48 US States only! From what I have learned the castings for this engine were made in a limited number by Debolt machine back in the late 80′s to the early 90′s. This is the first one of these that I have found in my past 20 years of building and restoring model hit and miss engines. Should you have any other information on this engine, please pass it along and I will place that info in this ad. Since there is not a lot of information out there on this engine I do not know the actual scale. My best guess is that it is ½ scale. The flywheels are 9 inches in diameter. Including the wooden display stand, the engine stands 25 tall to the top of the gas tank. The engines itself, not including the wooden base is 17 ½ inches tall. Total engine width from the outside edge of the aluminum pulley to the end of the crankshaft is approximately 12 ¾ inches. The wooden base measures 10 ¼ by 17 ¼ inches and is 5 ½ inches tall. This engine weighs around 58 lbs. So to view the video you need to go to YouTube and type the video title in their search box. Perkins Vertical side shaft model Hit and Miss model engine. You are encouraged to ask questions should you have any. Ignition; The spark for this engine is provided by a Make Brake ignition system. This system works by hooking a battery up to a low tension coil. When the contacts inside of the combustion area are closed, the coil is charged. When the contacts open quickly a spark is produced. The included low tension coil appears to be a restored original coil. The attached tag on the coil says; Shaw Electrical Co. Fuel system; This is a gravity fed fuel system with the gas tank mounted above the fuel mixer. There is a check ball that prevents fuel from running out of the tank when the engine is not running. I strongly recommend to drain the fuel out of the tank after running. Over the years I have cleaned out more fuel tanks and fuel mixers/carburetors than you could imagine due to people not draining the tanks dry when they were finished running the engine. I used some canned 4 cycle gas from Home Depot with a slight amount of castor oil added to it for upper cylinder lubrication. You can use pump gas, Naptha or Coleman fuel. Keep in mind that most all pump gas contains at least 10% methanol along with a ton of chemicals that leaves a white crusty buildup (methanol is corrosive to some metal parts, especially aluminum) on everything it is in contact with should it be left in the tank and carb to evaporate over time. The carburetor / fuel-mixer needle adjuster I have set at ½ turn out as I show in the video. Any mixture fine tuning I did by turning the choke plate as shown in the video. When the engine takes in only one gulp of air and it fires, you know you have the mixture set correctly. Anywhere two or more metal parts rub against each other, oil it! Regular 10w 30w automotive oil will work just fine. There are two oil cups for the crank ends and there is a drip oilier for the cylinder. Fill that up with a needle oiler or small tube hooked to a oil can and ople the needle valve a few turns and you should see some oil dripping looking through the sight glass. There is a opening where you can see the crankshaft and connecting rod lower end. There is a oil hole on the crank end of the connecting rod. Don’t be shy on the oil in this area. Also squirt some oil up around the top of the connecting rod at the piston wrist pin. There is a oil drain area in the bottom of the engine so the extra oil will end up down there. The brass valve on the back of the block is for draining out excess oil buildup. NOTE: Like the real full size hit and miss engines, these engines were not designed to run at a high RPM. Running this engine too fast could cause severe damage to the engine and possibly to anyone standing near it. Whats included in the sale; The engine as shown mounted on its display/running stand. The engine has a flat belt pulley custom machines by me, that is crowned in the center. The one way starter bearing that can be mounted in the pulley is included along with the 1/2 drill chuck bit that fits into the bearing. Whats not included; You need to provide your own 12 or 6 volt power supply and wiring to attach your power supply to the terminals as the battery and battery wire shown in the video is not included. I make no guarantee on how this will run for you. You should have some mechanical experience with small engines to get this to run properly. ALL SALES ARE FINAL! The total dry weight of this Perkin’s is about 57lbs. The heavy duty plastic container the engine will be packed up in weight 10lbs. So that is 67lbs without the large amount of packing material that I will be using. I wont be packing this engine till it sells so I can enjoy looking at it a little while longer and have it available for any needed photos or measurements. This is a running handmade gasoline powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts like hair or clothing in a rotating / moving mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an adult collectible item not to be operated or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction of a engine that was produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims as to how it will run for you as adjustments most likely will need to be made like fuel mixture or governor settings. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. You understand that this is a hand built reproduction of a antique engine that was manufactured back in the day before any built in safety precautions were added to mechanical devices. If you have any questions, please ask before purchasing or making a offer on this engine. I have detailed photos posted. I have a video posted and describe everything to the best of my ability. I encourage asking questions should you have any and I will be more than glad to help. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. Thank you for looking! The item “Perkins vertical air cooled sideshaft Hit and Miss Model Engine, show quality” is in sale since Thursday, June 21, 2018. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “bushvideo” and is located in Hamburg, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.
- Model: Perkins
- Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
- Type: Hit & Miss
- MPN: Perkin’s Wind Mill Co.
- Brand: Debolt machine castings
- Powered By: Gas
01Oct
Show quality 1/3 scale Galloway Hit and Miss gas powered model antique engine &
show
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To the lower 48 US States. Thank you for looking! Scale Galloway model Hit and Miss engine. On the color of the engine in the flash indoor photos. The flash makes the color look more orange than it really is. Your computer monitor could also make the color look slightly different. The last outdoor photo is a bit more accurate as this color is more of a red with a slight orange tint. The true color shows up well in the video. I put a lot of work into this one and it sure turned out nice! The full scale Galloway’s are rather large, so at 1/3. Scale this is not a small lightweight engine. The flywheels measure 10.2. The wooden stand is 22 long. Total engine length from the tip of the rocker arm to the back of the gas tank is 21 ½ inches long. It stands 14 ¾ inches tall on the stand and is 12 wide from the outside of the flat belt pulley to the outside of the other flywheel. Below the larger timing gear on the block are two small raised pads cast into the block. One pad has the letters BF on it and the other one has SG1 on it. The date 1998 is on the bottom of the engine. These pads with the letters on them are not on the newer castings. I did some research on who cast this engine and I believe it is a Dick Shiley from Manheim Pa. The engine has a 1.75inch bore with a 3.375 inch stroke. The unfinished castings weigh 80lbs so almost 20 plus pounds needs to be machined off of the raw castings for finishing. I used a original antique Lunkenheimer drip oiler for that authentic look and function. So you need to go to YouTube and type the video description(s) in the search box. Show quality 1/3rd Scale Galloway hit & miss engine. The removed items will be sent in a 2. In this video I messed up and said the wrong thing when talking about the governor setting. Its opposite of what I said… Please keep in mind that a “one of a kind” hand built item like this requires many hours of extensive machine work by a experienced operator. Plus many parts are hand fabricated and finished. I have over two months of working most every day into this one and much of the machine work was already completed. You are encouraged to ask questions should you have any and I will be more than glad to answer in a timely manner. Ignition; The spark for this engine is provided by a “Make Brake” ignition system. This system works by hooking a battery up to a low tension coil. When the contacts inside of the combustion area are closed the coil is charged. When the contacts open quickly a spark is produced. Fuel system; I ran this engine on 87 octane pump gas. I had just a little bit of older Naptha (Coleman camping fuel) to try and it seemed to run OK on that. When that small amount ran out I switched to gas. If you are running regular pump gas, drain out all the gas when you are finished running the engine. A higher octane gas actually could produce less power as the timing should be advanced for a higher octane fuel and changing the timing on this engine is not that easy. The timing is slightly before TDC right now. You can adjust it for your running needs. Keep in mind that too much advance will cause it to knock or kick backwards. The carburetor / fuel-mixer needle adjuster will be kept where I had it for the test running that I did. There is a mark on the adjustment knob so when its turned in the mark is at 12:00. Right now its out slightly less than 1 turn at about the 1:30 position. The adjustment range between lean and flooding it out is small. ¾ of a turn out and it will be lean and at one full turn out you will be flooding it out. If you see any black smoke coming out of the exhaust you are ruining it too rich. The fuel tank has a shut off valve on the bottom. You only need to open this valve no more than ¾ of a turn out. More than one turn out and the threaded area of the needle valve will be coming out of the sealing gasket and fuel will start to form on the bottom of the shut off valve. 1/2 turn open is plenty. The tank is big and it ran for me for about 2 hours on less than ¼ of a tank. The water hopper; Fill it up with water. This keeps the cylinder from overheating. Drain out the water by removing the brass plug once the water has cooled down enough that it wont burn your hand. There is another silver colored plug in the bottom and that one does nothing when its removed. The brass plug is the one that drains out the water. Don t let the engine sit for a long period of time with water in it as rust will form in the lower cooling area where the cast-iron is not painted. It would not hurt anything to spray some WD-40 down in the lower hopper area for storage. NOTE: Like the real full size hit and miss engines, these engines were not designed to run at a high RPM. Running this engine too fast could cause severe damage to the engine and possibly to anyone standing near it. Whats included in the sale; The engine as shown mounted on its display/running stand. The engine has a flat belt pulley custom machines by me, that is crowned in the center. The one way starter bearing that can be mounted in the pulley is included along with the 1/2 drill chuck bit that fits into the bearing. I make no guarantee on how this will run for you. You should have some mechanical experience with small engines to get this to run properly. ALL SALES ARE FINAL! The total dry weight of the Galloway is 63lbs. The heavy duty plastic container the engine will be packed up in weight 10lbs. That takes me over 70lbs for the container not including all of the packing materials I will be using. Those items weigh almost 20lbs and will allow me to keep the main package under 70lbs. I made a video showing you how to put it back together correctly. Go to YouTube and type this in their search box and it should bring up the assembly video or simply do a web search for this video title… Please note that I mess up in the video around the 1:00 mark when talking about the governor speed setting. Putting less tension on the spring causes the weight to move out sooner at a lower RPM thus the engine will run slower. Increasing the tension the engine will need to run faster till the exhaust valve gets locked open. I said this backwards in the video. This is a running, gasoline powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts like hair or clothing in a rotating / moving mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an “adult collectible” item not to be operated or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction of a engine that was produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims as to how it will run for you as adjustments most likely will need to be made like fuel mixture or governor settings. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. You understand that this is a gasoline powered reproduction of a antique engine that was made back in the day before any safety precautions were designed into mechanical devices. I have detailed photos posted. I have a video posted and describe everything to the best of my ability. I encourage asking questions should you have any and I will be more than glad to help. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. The item “Show quality 1/3 scale Galloway Hit and Miss gas powered model antique engine &” is in sale since Wednesday, September 27, 2017. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “t-n-b123″ and is located in Reading, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.
- Powered By: Gas
- Brand: Galloway
- Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
- Type: Hit & Miss
- Model: 1/3rd scale
11Nov
Model Hit And Miss Gas Engine Fully Machined & Assembled Quality Aluminum Steel
model
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Hit and miss engine from a kit and cadtongs, all top notch materials, Aluminum, Steel, stainless, and Brass, it is free with good compression, of course it would need fuel and ignition, but I see no reason this would not be a great runner, although with any small engine I suggest some mechanical knowledge to be able to get running and to be able to tinker with. The item “Model Hit And Miss Gas Engine Fully Machined & Assembled Quality Aluminum Steel” is in sale since Wednesday, November 09, 2016. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “littleshopofhoardres” and is located in Spokane, Missouri. This item can be shipped to United States.