½ Scale Running Model Reproduction of a Domestic Side Shaft Antique Hit and Miss Engine. It’s a NICE one! Here are the details on this engine. The engine itself, minus the wooden base is 15 inches long from the tip of the make brake ignition shaft to the fuel fill at the back of the engine. It’s about 11 wide from the outside of the pulley to the end of the crankshaft on the other side. It stands about 16tall from the bottom of the wooden stand to the top of the drip oilier. On the paint job. The cast block was smoothed out so the paint gives a nice smooth appearance. I do not know the year this one was made, but I can tell you that it does have the original paint job on it. There are a few small areas where the paint chipped and was touched up. Mainly around the flywheel hubs and around the head bolts and the area where the make brake contact assembly bolts on to the block. On the color of the engine…. Some of the photos needed to be taken with the flash on in my camera to show detail. All the flash photos make the engine look more red in color than it really is. I think the posted video taken outside in natural light shows the most accurate color. It is a dark brownish type of red, not a bright red like some of the flash photos make it look. The wooden base measures 29 inches long x 7 inches wide and. The flywheels measure 9 inches in diameter. It weighs around 55 lbs. Many hours of machine work, paint work, polishing, assembly, adjusting and testing goes into producing a high quality scale model like this. A lathe, milling machine, drill press, lots of tools and an experienced operator were needed to finish the rough castings and to fabricate the additional parts required. Having to pay someone for all of the machine work and fabrication involved would cost quite a bit! Whats included in this sale: You get the engine as pictured on the wooden stand. What is NOT included: The original 6 volt jell cell battery that I could not get to charge or the white wire I show in the video connected to the battery I used. There is room in the ignition box next to the low tension coil for a small 6 or 12v battery. DO NOT use a Lithium type battery. Either a jell cell, dry cell, Nicad or Nimh should be used. Here is a web link that will take you to the video of this engine running. This is the main ingredient, and possibly the only one in Coleman lantern fuel. I did add a couple of drops of castor oil in with the fuel for upper cylinder lubrication. You can use any high quality two cycle oil. Just go sparingly and keep it around 50:1 at the most. It has, what is called a Make Brake ignition system. How this system works is that there are contact points inside of the combustion chamber. The points close roughly at the bottom of the compression stroke. While the points are closed, the included hand made scale, low tension coil charges with electricity from either a 6 or 12 volt battery. (A battery is not included in this sale) Once the points open at the top of the compression stroke, the voltage in the coil is quickly discharged causing a spark at the contact points and that is what fires the compressed fuel air mixture. The part that you put in a drill is 1/2 (0.500) in diameter so you will need a drill with a ½ inch chuck. After taking the video of this engine running, I installed a scale globe type gate valve for a fuel shut off. (that is shown installed in some of the above photos) Since the fuel tank is in the engine block this is a gravity fed fuel system. When filled with fuel and not running, some fuel would seep out around the fuel mixers adjustment needle. Since you do NOT want to use the mixture needle as a fuel shut off, I added one. On the mixture setting that worked best for me, it started right up with the mixture needle turned out slightly less than ½ a turn as I show in the video. It was a cool winter day when I ran it so the setting that works best for you might be different. One note on the contact points for the ignition. The shaft that rotates the one contact for the points is spring loaded. There is a spring on the shaft. Since this sticks out at the front of the engine. It is possible when you are carrying this engine to push that spring loaded shaft in. This will not hurt anything, but if that shaft also rotates slightly it will not spring back into its position and the points will not make contact and work correctly. When this happens simple push in on the spring loaded shaft and rotate them back into position. Should you need to remove the points for cleaning, this can be easily done by removing one spring, take off the positive wire that is bolted to the one contact point stud and take out the two brass bolts with a 3/8 socket. I needed to grind down the end of the socket a bit to make it a super thin wall socket on the end so it fit over the one brass bolt head. When apart, make sure the contact area of the points line up and lay flat against each other. Remember when putting the wire back on, be careful not to make it so tight that you turn that stud because if you do the points will no longer lay flat against each other. You will note that there is a small O ring around the inner nut. This is to prevent any external spark ark between the shaft spring and that nut because they are close to each other. That would cause a misfire or possibly keep the engine from starting. Reapply a super thin layer of silicone form a gasket when putting the point assembly back on the engine and DO NOT over-tighten the two brass bolts. Remember they are just brass. And DO NOT put any silicone on those bolts as that could prevent that assembly from being electrically grounded to the engine block. I used 10-30 wt. Oil in the drip oilier. Make sure it’s turned on and dripping every once and a while. Put oil on everything that rubs against something!! There are many small oil holes located on this engine. There are spring loaded brass covers that cover oil cups for the crank shaft on the block. There is a hole on the connecting rod end for oil and oil the piston wrist pin plus put some oil on the exposed bottom part of the piston when its at bottom dead center. If it moves, oil it! Yes it will get dirty running it, just like the full scale engines do. The photos for this ad were taken after it was run for the video. I spent a afternoon cleaning everything up. I check my emails often and will respond in a timely manor. All sales are final as I will not accept a return on a item like this. NOTE: This is a running reproduction of a antique engine. It is a adult collectable item and is intended to be used by a experienced adult. Just like the original engine, it has no safety guards in place. Loose clothing, long hair or fingers could become caught in any moving part when this engine is running or even being turned over by hand. Use commonsense and keep your fingers especially small fingers! Away from all moving parts! I make no guarantees or clams as to how it will run for you or even if you would be able to get it started. Some mechanical knowledge and experience is needed to run any antique model engine like this. I have clear photos posted of this engine and I have a video posted showing it running. You should have some knowledge of a engine like this, like how to maintain it, keep it lubricated and adjust it if necessary as I provide no instructions other than what is in my videos and written in this ad. No guarantees of any kind are included with a custom hand made, adult hobby item like this. This item was listed on Thursday 2-22-17. After it’s packed I will update this part of my ad and list the package details here. I don’t like to pack in advance in case someone wants to see a photo that I do not have posted or want to know something about the item I need to check on. But when I have a chance in the next week after listing, it will be packed. I know I will be unscrewing the drip oiled for packing because it sticks up above the top of the block. I will start with wrapping the engine in stretch plastic wrap for paint protection. A thin layer of bubble-wrap then cover everything tightly in HD cardboard. That will then be wrapped in heavy duty bubble wrap. More details will be posted here like the container size and weight once everything is packed up. This is a reproduction gas powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts in a rotating mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an adult collectible item not to be operated or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims that it will even run as some might not have the mechanical ability to figure it out. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. I have detailed photos posted. A link is in this ad that shows this engine running. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. Thank you for looking! The item “1/2 Scale Domestic Side Shaft Hit and Miss gas powered model, Video of Running” is in sale since Wednesday, February 22, 2017. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “t-n-b123″ and is located in Reading, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.
- Brand: Domestic
- Powered By: Gas / Coleman lantern fuel
- Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
- Model: Hit and Miss
