To the lower 48 US States. Thank you for looking! Scale Galloway model Hit and Miss engine. On the color of the engine in the flash indoor photos. The flash makes the color look more orange than it really is. Your computer monitor could also make the color look slightly different. The last outdoor photo is a bit more accurate as this color is more of a red with a slight orange tint. The true color shows up well in the video. I put a lot of work into this one and it sure turned out nice! The full scale Galloway’s are rather large, so at 1/3. Scale this is not a small lightweight engine. The flywheels measure 10.2. The wooden stand is 22 long. Total engine length from the tip of the rocker arm to the back of the gas tank is 21 ½ inches long. It stands 14 ¾ inches tall on the stand and is 12 wide from the outside of the flat belt pulley to the outside of the other flywheel. Below the larger timing gear on the block are two small raised pads cast into the block. One pad has the letters BF on it and the other one has SG1 on it. The date 1998 is on the bottom of the engine. These pads with the letters on them are not on the newer castings. I did some research on who cast this engine and I believe it is a Dick Shiley from Manheim Pa. The engine has a 1.75inch bore with a 3.375 inch stroke. The unfinished castings weigh 80lbs so almost 20 plus pounds needs to be machined off of the raw castings for finishing. I used a original antique Lunkenheimer drip oiler for that authentic look and function. So you need to go to YouTube and type the video description(s) in the search box. Show quality 1/3rd Scale Galloway hit & miss engine. The removed items will be sent in a 2. In this video I messed up and said the wrong thing when talking about the governor setting. Its opposite of what I said… Please keep in mind that a “one of a kind” hand built item like this requires many hours of extensive machine work by a experienced operator. Plus many parts are hand fabricated and finished. I have over two months of working most every day into this one and much of the machine work was already completed. You are encouraged to ask questions should you have any and I will be more than glad to answer in a timely manner. Ignition; The spark for this engine is provided by a “Make Brake” ignition system. This system works by hooking a battery up to a low tension coil. When the contacts inside of the combustion area are closed the coil is charged. When the contacts open quickly a spark is produced. Fuel system; I ran this engine on 87 octane pump gas. I had just a little bit of older Naptha (Coleman camping fuel) to try and it seemed to run OK on that. When that small amount ran out I switched to gas. If you are running regular pump gas, drain out all the gas when you are finished running the engine. A higher octane gas actually could produce less power as the timing should be advanced for a higher octane fuel and changing the timing on this engine is not that easy. The timing is slightly before TDC right now. You can adjust it for your running needs. Keep in mind that too much advance will cause it to knock or kick backwards. The carburetor / fuel-mixer needle adjuster will be kept where I had it for the test running that I did. There is a mark on the adjustment knob so when its turned in the mark is at 12:00. Right now its out slightly less than 1 turn at about the 1:30 position. The adjustment range between lean and flooding it out is small. ¾ of a turn out and it will be lean and at one full turn out you will be flooding it out. If you see any black smoke coming out of the exhaust you are ruining it too rich. The fuel tank has a shut off valve on the bottom. You only need to open this valve no more than ¾ of a turn out. More than one turn out and the threaded area of the needle valve will be coming out of the sealing gasket and fuel will start to form on the bottom of the shut off valve. 1/2 turn open is plenty. The tank is big and it ran for me for about 2 hours on less than ¼ of a tank. The water hopper; Fill it up with water. This keeps the cylinder from overheating. Drain out the water by removing the brass plug once the water has cooled down enough that it wont burn your hand. There is another silver colored plug in the bottom and that one does nothing when its removed. The brass plug is the one that drains out the water. Don t let the engine sit for a long period of time with water in it as rust will form in the lower cooling area where the cast-iron is not painted. It would not hurt anything to spray some WD-40 down in the lower hopper area for storage. NOTE: Like the real full size hit and miss engines, these engines were not designed to run at a high RPM. Running this engine too fast could cause severe damage to the engine and possibly to anyone standing near it. Whats included in the sale; The engine as shown mounted on its display/running stand. The engine has a flat belt pulley custom machines by me, that is crowned in the center. The one way starter bearing that can be mounted in the pulley is included along with the 1/2 drill chuck bit that fits into the bearing. I make no guarantee on how this will run for you. You should have some mechanical experience with small engines to get this to run properly. ALL SALES ARE FINAL! The total dry weight of the Galloway is 63lbs. The heavy duty plastic container the engine will be packed up in weight 10lbs. That takes me over 70lbs for the container not including all of the packing materials I will be using. Those items weigh almost 20lbs and will allow me to keep the main package under 70lbs. I made a video showing you how to put it back together correctly. Go to YouTube and type this in their search box and it should bring up the assembly video or simply do a web search for this video title… Please note that I mess up in the video around the 1:00 mark when talking about the governor speed setting. Putting less tension on the spring causes the weight to move out sooner at a lower RPM thus the engine will run slower. Increasing the tension the engine will need to run faster till the exhaust valve gets locked open. I said this backwards in the video. This is a running, gasoline powered scale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees what so ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts like hair or clothing in a rotating / moving mechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities and liabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This is an “adult collectible” item not to be operated or played with by children. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scale model reproduction of a engine that was produced back in the day when no safety guards, air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. Were attached to dangerous products. I make no claims as to how it will run for you as adjustments most likely will need to be made like fuel mixture or governor settings. By purchasing this item you are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it and that you agree with the terms and policy’s stated in this ad. You understand that this is a gasoline powered reproduction of a antique engine that was made back in the day before any safety precautions were designed into mechanical devices. I have detailed photos posted. I have a video posted and describe everything to the best of my ability. I encourage asking questions should you have any and I will be more than glad to help. Thank you for looking!! Should you have any questions, please ask. The item “Show quality 1/3 scale Galloway Hit and Miss gas powered model antique engine &” is in sale since Wednesday, September 27, 2017. This item is in the category “Business & Industrial\Light Equipment & Tools\Stationary Engines\Engines”. The seller is “t-n-b123″ and is located in Reading, Pennsylvania. This item can be shipped to United States.
- Powered By: Gas
- Brand: Galloway
- Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
- Type: Hit & Miss
- Model: 1/3rd scale
